This is by far the best explanation that I have read. Drywall is cheap, goes up easily and doesnt take much acquired skill to learn how to tape, mud and finish the joints. To stop this from happening, you would have to:ġ- place the mud in a vaccuum to release the disolved gasses, orĢ- heat the mud until it's warmer than the drywall and keep it warmer while working, orģ- Trowel repeatedly until the bubbles disappear (if the fill is shallow enough), orĤ- Accept it. Over-whipping the mix might add to the problem, but I think the notion of mixing air into the mud is too frequently offered as an explanation for this phenomenon, and leads people on a fruitless (and potentially expensive) search for better mixing methods. On unpainted drywall, the gas is able to dissapate through the face paper and not form "seeds" (like you'll see on the bottom of a pot of water as it nears boiling point), but not so on a painted surface. The change in the mud temperature effected by the warmer ceiling will cause the disolved air in the compound to outgas. "A painted surface is not porous like drywall paper. Use a paint roller with a smooth nap to apply a thin and even coat of thinned drywall mud to the wall or ceiling. The average cost for a 1/2-in.-thick 4×8 sheet is about 18, but thicker panels and different sizes are also available from each company. Remove any furniture, cover the floor with drop cloths, and protect trim and baseboards with painter’s tape to prevent splatter. Quote from another drywaller on another forum Paper-faced mold-resistant drywall panels are made by most gypsum companies, but only a few make paperless gypsum for interior applications. Preparing Your Workspace Before you start skim coating your drywall, it’s essential to prepare your workspace properly.
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